The Pee In The Peace Corps, by Tara Goedjen

I was tempted to join when I first heard about the Peace Corps. Travel abroad, learn a new language, all expenses paid? I’m in. But then again… I’d heard a few stories about volunteers living in developing countries, and, for me, squatting with a soggy toilet paper roll is best left to semi-annual camping trips.

I reconsidered joining after college, but the thought of volunteering for a two-year commitment seemed daunting, especially since I wanted to start graduate school. The perfect solution was to attend a program that required foreign service, like the writing program at the University of Nevada. It might have been perfect—except that I missed the application deadline.

So, I did what most people do when they like something enough to be intrigued by it but not enough to actually do it: I lived vicariously through a friend.

Here’s his story about his experience, and what it means to be a volunteer for the Peace Corps in one of the most remote locations in the world.

TG: Why did you decide to join the Peace Corps?

Ryan Lawler: I took an experiential learning trip to study the US/Mexico border my senior year of college. After that, I wanted to be a part of something that was helping developing countries on a grassroots level.  Plus, I had no idea what I wanted to do with my life–I just knew I wanted it to have meaning.

TG: When the Peace Corps was initially created in the ’60s, they gave a general aptitude and language aptitude test. Was there anything unusual during your application process or interview?

RL: The process is unusually long.  You should set aside at least 9 months in order to complete the application, all necessary interviews, as well as your medical clearance.

TG: How did you make the transition from the US to a developing country in Africa?

RL: The Peace Corps had an intentional transition program for new volunteers.  First, we convened in Washington, DC for a few days and learned more about The Gambia, met our fellow volunteers, engaged in some teambuilding exercises and heard stories from returned volunteers in the region (West Africa).  Once we arrived in country, we stayed at a compound in the capital, met some current volunteers, met the administration (country director, assistant country director, etc.) and participated in some cultural and language training.  After a week in the capital we were split off into our respective training villages (3-6 volunteers in each village) where we lived with a host family and reconvened with the larger group every weekend at a tourist camp to touch base and share our experiences.  While in the training village, the language and cultural training continued and was much more intense, combined with real-world practice exercises.  After two months our training was officially over and we moved out to our permanent posts.

With that said, there really isn’t a way to “make the transition” other than doing it.  Keeping your mouth closed and your mind open is probably the best way.

TG: What made you decide to choose the Gambia?

RL: I didn’t exactly choose the Gambia.  When asked if I had a region preference (these are primarily continental–South America, Africa, etc.) I said that I did not, but would prefer not going some place cold.  It’s my understanding that Peace Corps tries to match someone to the current openings they have, which is how most volunteers get their country assignments as well as the field they will be working in (education, environment, business, etc.).

TG: I understand there was a failed coup attempt in 2006. Were you there for that? Also in 2002 there was a law passed that allowed the President to imprison journalists…Did you witness any political strife while you were there?

RL: I served from Sept. 2003 to Feb. 2005 (my time was cut short due to medical issues), so I wasn’t there for the coup.  The Gambia has had the same president (Yayha Jammeh) since 1994, who coincidentally came to power from a bloodless coup.  There are no term limits and no real political accountability so he continues to stay in power.  There is very little freedom of the press in the Gambia and while it hasn’t been proven, a journalist, Deyda Hydara, was presumably killed by the government because of anti-Jammeh comments he was making in his articles.  Intimidation prevents people from voting against Jammeh–the government controls a lot of the food supply as well as the meager amenities some villages and towns have.  Plus, there is no way make sure elections are free and fair.

TG: What was the most interesting thing you learned during your training period?

RL: That the Pulaar words for “snake” and “mosquito” sound a lot alike.  I spent a day telling everyone I saw in the village I was bitten by a snake when they asked about my infected mosquito bite that had become a boil.  For one day everyone thought I was really tough.

TG: How did you adjust to your living conditions? What was the most beneficial thing you learned from you family?

RL: Getting acclimated to no electricity or running water was surprisingly easy–it’s the cultural differences that take a while.

I learned a hard lesson from my family.  Not every culture, or people within that culture for that matter, has the same ideas regarding disciplining children.  The children in my compound were beaten on occasion.  I decided to intervene one night and put myself between one of my host sisters and her child.  It changed our family dynamic and I wasn’t really treated the same after that.  I wasn’t ostracized or treated poorly, but it was clear that she and some other members of the family disapproved.

TG: How did community life in the Gambia compare to life in the states?

RL: We relish our boundaries in the States…

No running water or electricity meant no plumbing.  My bathroom was a hole in the ground with a removable concrete cover, a metal handle jutting from the top.  Nighttime bathroom trips were always precarious–you had to locate your flashlight or candle before venturing outside.  Always remove the cover while standing up so you can dance around the cockroaches that would scurry out (burning your trash over the hole helped keep them at bay).  During this dance I dropped my flashlight into the hole.  Gambia has a lot of things that America does–including flashlights.  But as was usually the case, these were much worse than the ones we brought with us. Gambian flashlights quit working after a month and eat batteries quicker than a small boy (yeah, this was sad reality–had to explain several times why children shouldn’t suck on batteries).  So I fished it out and washed it with bleach (it was waterproof–another reason I didn’t want to part with it).  That’s probably the grossest thing I’ve ever done.

And at a car park in a village called Soma, there were tin enclosures with holes in the ground (think Slumdog Millionaire).  A random man tried to charge me to use them, thinking I was a tourist.  The only other time I’ve been charged to use the bathroom was in Herrod’s in London.

TG: So did your body adjust quickly to the differences in food and water over there?

RL: Due to frequent bouts of dysentery and Giardia, diarrhea and vomiting were commonplace.  Sometimes they would occur together–which we dubbed as “going number 3″.

TG: Were there any cultural or historical stories that fascinated you?

RL: Several people died as a result of a hippo attack near my village.  An older man told me that no one could find the hippo responsible because it wasn’t a hippo after all, but a man who changes into a hippo when he enters the water.

TG: The first year the Peace Corps sent out volunteers, a girl wrote a letter home about her living conditions in Nigeria…the Nigerians accused the Americans of being spies and there was a hunger strike until communication resumed…Did you see any racial or cultural tensions while in Africa?

RL: Sure.  We’re talking about countries whose boundaries came into being as a result of European influence, without regards to tribal lands or traditional boundaries that had been established prior to colonization, so its understandable that there might be some persistent tensions.

The “spy” thing still exists to a lesser extent.  A few times I was accused of being spy.   I heard it articulated best by a guy in my village.  I asked him why he thought I was spying on the Gambia and he explained that I wasn’t spying on them, but I was learning the language so I could go work in an airport later and spy on Pulaar-speaking passengers.

Most Gambians who I didn’t know personally, especially children, referred to me as “toubob”, which is slang for white person. Or if you want to be more politically correct, “a person from the West”. It’s not said with any malice or hurtful intent, but does get annoying after a while.  I tried to explain why I didn’t appreciate it and was frequently told, “but you are a toubob–why does this offend you?”  Our pc societal norms didn’t really translate. I’ve been told the term is very old and that “bobs” were a form of currency when it came into being.  Westerners would give a child “two bobs” to run an errand for them.

The most palpable cultural barrier occurred during my role as a school teacher.  It was obvious that prior to “teaching” the students I was going to have to learn from them.  It is somewhat jarring and offensive to them having an American who does not know them, know their family, know their village, know their language, etc. come in to teach them.  I spent the first 3 months gaining their respect and learning.  Then with their help, I was able to teach.

TG: John F. Kennedy, credited with starting the Peace Corps, said that it was a remedy for the reputation of “Ugly American” and “American Imperialist.” What are your thoughts on the Peace Corps’ presence around the world?

RL: I think that Peace Corps is succeeding in this respect.  It’s almost as if the actual, tangible work that is done, whether sustainable or not, is simply a conduit to accomplish Kennedy’s goal.  Peace Corps has been in the Gambia for over 30 years and the country isn’t much better off now than it was then.  A lot of this is due to factors such as political corruption and ecosystem deterioration (the Sahara gets larger every year) that Peace Corps volunteers can’t control.  However, the average Gambian’s opinion of Americans is a positive one.  The struggle comes when trying to distinguish yourself as an American Peace Corps volunteer from a wealthy European tourist and how each has a different purpose in being in the country.  To a lot of Gambians, the West is the West and there really isn’t any difference.

TG: Were there any frustrations that you had while working for a governmental organization?

RL: We didn’t get paid for a month because our budget wasn’t finalized, or at least that is what we were told.  My service ended due to an ongoing medical issue and I disagreed with the decision.  However, the appeals process is so long and convoluted that like me, most just accept the decision.

TG: What do you miss the most about your experiences in the Gambia? What moments will stay with you the longest?

RL: Everyday there was a sight, sound, experience that was new, different and unlike anything I had ever witnessed before.  I miss that.

TG: President Obama stated that he wanted to double the size of the Peace Corps. What advice could you give to someone who’s considering joining?

RL: Don’t try to change anyone you meet and be prepared to change everything about yourself.